Ten years ago, the path over the Valbona Pass was a shepherds' route between two isolated villages, walked mostly by locals and the occasional determined backpacker. Today it's the most famous trek in Albania and one of the best known in the Balkans. Theth, a village of around 200 residents, now welcomes something like 15,000 visitors across the four months it's properly accessible, and its old stone tower houses have become guesthouses run by the families who grew up in them. That's a remarkable thing for a valley that was almost empty a generation ago. It has also made those few hours over the pass the busiest walking in the country, which is good news if you like the idea of spreading that success a little further. The valleys and ranges either side of Theth have the same limestone peaks, the same shepherd hospitality and a fraction of the footfall, and the guesthouses there are just getting started. This is a country with the Accursed Mountains in the north, gentle monastery-dotted hills in the south, and a new long distance trail along its eastern borderlands. Walk the famous trail, then keep going. The Valbona to Theth pass is also far from the only route worth lacing up your boots for. Our Albania itineraries take in everything from a sacred mountain outside Berat to homestay hiking in rural Zagoria, and the trails in between are just as rewarding. Here are more, each one already part of an Undiscovered Balkans trip. 1. Theth to Valbona: the introduction to hiking in Albania The hike from Valbona to Theth has become Albania's best known trail for good reason, a high mountain pass through the Accursed Mountains with views that live up to the name. The trail climbs from one glacial valley over a high
Ten years ago, the path over the Valbona Pass was a shepherds’ route between two isolated villages, walked mostly by locals and the occasional determined backpacker. Today it’s the most famous trek in Albania and one of the best known in the Balkans. Theth, a village of around 200 residents, now welcomes something like 15,000
If you've been researching a trip to the largest lake in the Balkans, you've probably noticed something confusing. Some maps call it Skadar Lake. Others say Lake Shkodra or Lake Shkodër. Some sources put it in Montenegro. Others in Albania. UNESCO appears to use different names for what might be the same place. And now it's a World Biosphere Reserve — or is it two? Here is the short answer: Lake Skadar and Lake Shkodra are one lake, shared by two countries – Albania and Montenegro. It has just become one of the most officially protected wetland ecosystems in Europe in recognition of its exceptional biodiversity (you'll see a lot of waterbirds, even pelicans). We've been running trips here for 16 years, and this spectacular wetland is central to several of our holidays: our Lake Skadar Activity Holiday (Montenegro), our North Albania Activity Week (Albania), our Cross-Border Lake Kayaking Holiday (Montenegro to Albania) and our specialist retreats for art, yoga, paddlesports or birdwatching. Here's everything you need to know — and a case for why this lake deserves to be on your radar. Is it Lake Skadar or Lake Shkodra? It's both. The confusion comes from the fact that it sits across an international border, with roughly two thirds of its waters in Montenegro and one third in Albania. Each country uses its own name: Skadarsko Jezero in Montenegro, Liqeni i Shkodrës in Albania. The lake of many names The Illyrians called this lake 'Labeatis'. The Romans knew it as 'Scodra', which was slavicised to 'Skadar' after the arrival of Slavic tribes in the 6th and 7th centuries. The Ottomans (Turks) called it İşkodra and ruled the entire area for a time. Modern Albanians say Shkodër (or Shkodrës). Older English language texts sometimes use Lake Scutari, borrowed from the Italian,
If you’ve been researching a trip to the largest lake in the Balkans, you’ve probably noticed something confusing. Some maps call it Skadar Lake. Others say Lake Shkodra or Lake Shkodër. Some sources put it in Montenegro. Others in Albania. UNESCO appears to use different names for what might be the same place. And now
Wild swimming: once the preserve of cold-water obsessives, now a fully-fledged wellness trend. But Albania doesn't need a trend to have some of the best places for wild swimming in the Western hemisphere. When you live near some of Europe's cleanest rivers and lakes, it's impossible not to want to jump in for a refreshing swim! Albania has a multitude of wild swimming spots: from lakes high in the Accursed Mountains to turquoise canyon rivers, and from warm Adriatic-fed lakes to thermal springs that bubble up like nature's own spa. Not to forget that long stretch of coast, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet in one brilliant swathe of turquoise blue. If you're planning to visit and wondering where and how to fit some swimming in, here are nine of our favourite spots to wild swim in Albania. All are places that feature on our Albania adventure holidays. Bring your cozzie, water shoes and no particular expectations about temperature. The Best Places for Wild Swimming in Albania (from wild swimmers) 1. Wild swimming in Lake Shkodra Best for: Families, warmer water, birdwatchers who swim and fresh fish lunches. Albania shares the Balkans' largest lake with Montenegro, and the Albanian side of Lake Shkodra (or Shkodër/Skadar) is much less known by western tourists. The best swimming spots on the Albanian shore can be found in villages like Shirokë, which are popular weekend destinations for locals. As you immerse in the lake's exceptionally clean waters (as a karst lake, it's spring and river-fed, refreshing around four times a year), enjoy views that stretch across the water to the dramatic Albanian Alps, rising 2,000+ metres high. Lake Shkodra warms up nicely through summer, making this the most accessible wild swimming in Albania for families or anyone not keen on the full glacial-shock
Wild swimming: once the preserve of cold-water obsessives, now a fully-fledged wellness trend. But Albania doesn’t need a trend to have some of the best places for wild swimming in the Western hemisphere. When you live near some of Europe’s cleanest rivers and lakes, it’s impossible not to want to jump in for a refreshing
Ever stood inside a Cold War nuclear bunker built to survive an atomic blast? Across the Balkans, these strange concrete domes have become a unique part of the landscape. Built by Tito's communist regime in Yugoslavia and Enver Hoxha in Albania, Balkan bunkers are some of the most fascinating Cold War relics you can explore on our adventure holidays in Europe. From Albania’s mushroom-shaped bunkers dotted across beaches and mountains to Tito’s secret nuclear shelter hidden in the Bosnian hills, Balkan bunkers show us what it was like to live under paranoid surveillance states. With military tensions once again creeping into the news, these subterranean worlds feel newly relevant. Eerie though they are, local people have been turning old communist bunkers into everything from museums and tattoo studios to wine cellars. Being adventure travellers, we love exploring these hidden - and scenic - places. Scroll down to find out how we seek out the best Balkan bunkers on our Albania, Bosnia and Serbia hiking holidays : Albania: the capital of Balkan bunkers If there is a global capital of communist bunkers, Albania claims it hands down. Under the paranoid dictatorship of Enver Hoxha, the country was sealed off from the world and obsessively fortified against imagined invasion. Between the 1960s and 1980s, an estimated 173,000 to 750,000 were constructed, giving Albania he highest concentration of Cold War bunkers anywhere in the Balkans – and arguably the world. These surreal mushroom-shaped domes were designed so that every citizen could, in theory, help defend the country. You don’t need to hunt for bunkers in Albania – they appear everywhere, like giant stealth tortoises. In city parks, perched above beaches, sunk into vineyards and looming over mountain passes. Some have been painted with bright yellow emojis, others turned into tattoo parlours. In Tirana,
Ever stood inside a Cold War nuclear bunker built to survive an atomic blast? Across the Balkans, these strange concrete domes have become a unique part of the landscape. Built by Tito’s communist regime in Yugoslavia and Enver Hoxha in Albania, Balkan bunkers are some of the most fascinating Cold War relics you can explore
If you’re in search of some armchair travel or inspiration for your next trip, we’ve rounded up nine of our favourite books set in the Balkans. Whether you’re looking to escape to the idyllic mountainscapes or understand the region’s complex past, these books will have you gripped - and perhaps even inspire you to visit the Balkans. Our carefully curated reading list will whisk you away to Mostar’s cobbled streets, Croatia’s turquoise lakes, and Albania’s timeless mountain villages. Meet Europe’s native Muslim communities in Tharik Hussain’s travelogue, follow ethnic Serb writer Mary Novakovich as she traces her family’s roots in Croatia, or watch four centuries of turbulent history play out on the Drina River in Nobel prize winner Ivo Andrić’s novel. Books set in Albania High Albania by Mary Edith Durham Follow intrepid Edwardian explorer Mary Edith Durham into the Balkans, a region few dared to cross at the turn of the 20th century when war and violence loomed over a collapsing Ottoman empire. Durham’s most famous book, High Albania, is a remarkable account of her adventures in the remote mountains of Albania and Montenegro where tribal communities lived untouched by modernity and foreign influence. You’ll be amazed by the stories and customs of the people she met. Free: Coming of Age at the End of History by Lea Ypi Albanian writer Lea Ype gives an honest and insightful account of her life under the communist regime and after its collapse in her memoir Free. A fascinating read about one of the world’s most misunderstood countries, you will learn about the challenges and joys of living in Albania, which has long been overlooked by the rest of the world. Ypi's latest book, Indignity, is also set in Albania, but explores the beginning of the 20th century and the beginnings of
If you’re in search of some armchair travel or inspiration for your next trip, we’ve rounded up nine of our favourite books set in the Balkans. Whether you’re looking to escape to the idyllic mountainscapes or understand the region’s complex past, these books will have you gripped – and perhaps even inspire you to visit
Cultural heritage isn’t kept behind museum glass in the Balkans—it’s lived, breathed, eaten, sung, crafted and danced. From Ottoman cities like Berat and Mostar to natural wonders such as Durmitor National Park, Albanian folk singing to lacemaking in Croatia, UNESCO World Heritage in the Balkans is a multi-sensory tapestry of the region’s diverse natural and cultural offerings. In light of Lake Skadar being nominated to become a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in October 2025, we’ve rounded up some of the region’s cultural and natural highlights—many of which you can see on our holidays in Montenegro, Albania, Serbia, Bulgaria and Croatia. UNESCO natural heritage in the Balkans Durmitor National Park, Montenegro Characterized by towering limestone peaks and glacial lakes, Durmitor National Park in Montenegro is undeniably breathtaking. It’s home to one of Europe’s deepest canyons and the stunning Black Lake. “I’ll never forget my first glimpse of Durmitor National Park, like a real-life Hobbit land, all jagged peaks in stunning formations, and wispy clouds, with wild horses roaming the grassy meadows,” says UB co-founder Emma. “The landscape’s so epic it’s hard to take it all in.” Visit Durmitor National Park on our Montenegro family activity holiday. Lake Skadar, Montenegro & Albania Lake Skadar straddles the border between Montenegro and Albania and is the largest lake in Southern Europe at roughly 400 square kilometres (is actual size depends seasonal water level variations). This biodiversity hotspot is teeming with wildlife and an important nesting site for the endangered Dalmatian Pelican, which our guests love to spot during kayaking safaris on our Lake Skadar holiday, and on boat trips. In 2025, the Montenegrin and Albanian governments both nominated Lake Skadar to become a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which means it will enjoy greater environmental protection and extend the so-called 'Amazon of Europe' deeper into Southeast Europe.
Cultural heritage isn’t kept behind museum glass in the Balkans—it’s lived, breathed, eaten, sung, crafted and danced. From Ottoman cities like Berat and Mostar to natural wonders such as Durmitor National Park, Albanian folk singing to lacemaking in Croatia, UNESCO World Heritage in the Balkans is a multi-sensory tapestry of the region’s diverse natural and
I’ve had my fair share of unforgettable travel moments over the years, but this one, which led to milking a sheep in a hailstorm on a remote mountain in North Albania, is right up there. This summer, my 11-year-old daughter and I joined a ‘tester day’ for a new experience we’ve included on our Family Peaks of the Balkans Hiking Holiday. I stumbled across Nina on social media a while ago; a fellow foreigner who’d fallen as deeply for this region as we have, she’d begun connecting travellers with shepherd families in the highlands of Kelmend. It sounded like exactly the kind of local encounter we love to include in our trips: authentic, meaningful, and rooted in everyday life. Arriving at the ‘stan’ We met Nina early at our Lëpushë guesthouse, and set off on foot towards the Nikaj family ‘stan’ (a shepherd’s hut where the family spend the warmer months tending to their flock). Our walk took around forty-five minutes through rolling countryside, with a few stops to admire the bucolic views, greet a passing goat-herder, and pause by a large white cross that marks the entrance to these Catholic highlands. When we reached the stan, we were greeted by a barking but friendly dog and the comforting chaos of family life. Lule, the chief shepherdess, greeted us with a smile that could light up the valley. She and her husband have seven children ranging in age from seven to 24. Within minutes, we were sitting around their outside table with Turkish coffee, ‘raki’ brandy (“it makes things easier,” laughed Lule) and, for the kids, fresh sheep’s milk. I tasted it too, and to my surprise, it was closer to creamy cow’s milk than the stronger flavour I’d anticipated. Meanwhile, the kids were already off making friends with piglets
I’ve had my fair share of unforgettable travel moments over the years, but this one, which led to milking a sheep in a hailstorm on a remote mountain in North Albania, is right up there. This summer, my 11-year-old daughter and I joined a ‘tester day’ for a new experience we’ve included on our Family
Albania is a great destination for foodies. From hearty meat dishes to fresh vegetables and quaffable wines to wash it down with, food is at the heart of the culture. You will never go hungry on Albanian food, that’s for sure. But where do you start? Here’s our guide to traditional Albanian dishes and wine, plus a few recommendations on where to find the best Albanian food. What is Albanian food like? Albanian cuisine blends Mediterranean freshness with Turkish influences, so think fragrant salads, olive oil and fish alongside grilled meats, pillaf rice, slow-cooked stews and soft cheeses. Crucially, Albanians eat seasonally and they’re also incredibly resourceful with their ingredients—aubergine five ways? You got it. Traditional Albanian foods to try during your next visit Tavë Kosi Tavë Kosi is Albania’s national dish. It’s also known as Elbasan Tava after the town it came from. Lamb is mixed into a roux (white sauce) and then topped with a mixture of yoghurt, rice and eggs, and typically seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic and oregano. The yoghurt gives the dish a slightly tangy flavour which compliments the meat. Fërgesë Fërgesë is sometimes referred to as “summer stew” because Albanians like to eat it once it’s cooled and thickened. It’s a tomato sauce-based dish with green peppers, garlic and cottage cheese and usually eaten with homemade bread. Byrek Also known as burek, this dish isn’t exclusive to Albania and can be found widely across the Balkans, each country putting its own spin on it. It’s made with layered filo pastry and most commonly stuffed with cheese and an array of different vegetables or meats. It’s eaten as a breakfast or late evening snack in Albania. You can find this humble dish in bakeries and restaurants across the country. Petulla Petulla is another food found
Albania is a great destination for foodies. From hearty meat dishes to fresh vegetables and quaffable wines to wash it down with, food is at the heart of the culture. You will never go hungry on Albanian food, that’s for sure. But where do you start? Here’s our guide to traditional Albanian dishes and wine,
While Albania may be known for its beaches, there are lots of interesting things about this Balkan superstar. From Stephen Fry’s almost royal connection to the communist leader’s love for British comedy, here are 12 fun facts about Albania. 1. Albania is home to more than 170,000 bunkers Communist dictator Enver Hoxha was a paranoid individual and wanted to fortify Albania in case of an attack. Between the 1960s-1980s, some 750,000 concrete bunkers were built across the country, which was equal to roughly 5.7 bunkers per square kilometre. There’s still about 170,000 of these concrete mushrooms around today, making Albania’s landscape truly unique. 2. Albanians descend from one of Europe's oldest civilisations Long before the Greeks or Romans arrived, the Illyrians were spread across the western Balkans from the 10th century BCE. Modern Albanians are thought to descend from these early tribes, with the country’s name itself coming from the Illyrian tribe of the Albanoi. The last and best-known Illyrian kingdom was in today’s Shkodër. 3. Albania has one of the world’s oldest languages The Albanian language (shqip) is considered one of the world’s oldest living languages; it’s thought to be a direct linguistic descendant of Illyrian. The Albanian language is also truly unique, unrelated to other European languages. 4.Yes means no, no means yes In Albania, a nod means ‘no’ and a head shake means ‘yes,’ which can confuse tourists. To make things more confusing, there’s only one letter difference between ‘yes’ (‘po’) and ‘no’ (‘yo’). Related: Where is the Balkans anyway? Albania is not the “Maldives of Europe”—here’s why 7 things you can only see, eat or do in Albania 5. Albania was once the North Korea of Europe Albania spent 50 years in total isolation under a strict communist regime between 1946-1991. Just wearing jeans or growing
While Albania may be known for its beaches, there are lots of interesting things about this Balkan superstar. From Stephen Fry’s almost royal connection to the communist leader’s love for British comedy, here are 12 fun facts about Albania. 1. Albania is home to more than 170,000 bunkers Communist dictator Enver Hoxha was a paranoid
Travel journalist Laura Sanders has visited Albania twice with us and guest blogs this week to explain the problem with coining Albania the “Maldives of Europe.” You will not catch me referring to Albania as the “Maldives of Europe.” For one, that only refers to the 25% of the country made up of coastline. The other 75%? Mountains, rivers, lakes and remote farming villages clinging to traditional ways of life. Sure, the Albanian coast is stunning and surrounded by clear, turquoise waters synonymous with tropical paradise. But it may not be the secluded island-esque escape you’re being sold when being compared to the Maldives. The coast is heaving during summer, which is why during Undiscovered Balkans’ South Albania tour, we only spent one day there. Thanks to Albania being deemed the hidden budget beach break by travel media, every man and his dog has flocked to Vlorë—aka the Albanian Riviera—and it's no longer exclusive. Due to increased demand, prices of hotels and restaurants in the area have shot up in the past couple of years, but the standards haven’t followed, so while Albania is still the cheaper option, it might not be as much of a bargain as you think. There’s also a lot of construction happening around the coast at the moment. As mentioned, the majority of this beautiful country is made up of mountains, rivers and lakes—many of these primed for wild swimming and fringed by little pebble beaches you really can have all to yourself—Lake Ohrid being one of my favourites. The mountains here are so wild and untamed, they make western Europe’s Alps look manmade and they’d have to be seen to be believed. From hiking the Theth to Valbona pass to whitewater rafting on the Vjosa, there’s adventure to be found everywhere. And in places,
Travel journalist Laura Sanders has visited Albania twice with us and guest blogs this week to explain the problem with coining Albania the “Maldives of Europe.” You will not catch me referring to Albania as the “Maldives of Europe.” For one, that only refers to the 25% of the country made up of coastline. The
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. You may opt-out if you wish. Cookie settingsACCEPT
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
We use cookies to improve your experience while navigating our website. Of these cookies, those that are categorized as necessary are stored in your browser as they are essential for the basic functionality of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. However, opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for this website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensure basic functionality and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for this website to function and are used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to using these cookies on this website.
