Nebija Qotaj first sat behind a loom at the age of 10, under the instruction of her mother and grandmother. Now aged 62 and a grandmother herself, she owns her own successful Albanian rug weaving cooperative and her passion for the craft is infectious. If you’re joining us in Albania, you’ll have a chance to meet Nebija at her workshop on Lake Shkodra.
Albania’s rich weaving traditions stem from the Ottoman empire. For centuries, Balkan rugs, known as ‘kilims’, have been traditionally given as a dowry (a ‘paja’) and some families still do this today. The designs and motifs used differ between Balkan countries and in Albania, you’ll typically see rugs with Islamic and tribal motifs on them.
All of the magic happens beneath her family home in the village of Zogaj, a sleepy fishing village trapped in time where men fish and women weave. Sadly, the practice is dying out as the younger generations move away to study and work in bigger towns and cities – including Nebija’s kids.
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During the communist regime in Albania, weaving was revived in this area in an effort to improve women’s quality of life and deter them from crossing the border into Montenegro (which is within walking distance of Nebija’s village). A factory was built and this is where Nebija worked until it was destroyed during the collapse of communism in the 1990s. That’s when Nebija and a few others decided to carry on weaving and set up at home. Many questioned why she bothered to continue weaving rugs at first, but it’s all she’s ever known and it’s a custom she isn’t willing to let fade away. Her shop is adorned with cushions and rugs woven by generations before her.
On the ground floor, the women tap away on 200-year-old apparatus – and it’s not until you have a go yourself that you realise how skilled and nimble-fingered they are. They only use natural, locally sourced wool which is dyed using natural colours extracted from pomegranates and walnuts.
Once woven, which can take weeks and several pairs of hands at once, the rugs are taken upstairs where they’re finished off. Follow Nebija up to her balcony and you’ll run into a group of women having a giggle and gossip while they trim any stray bits of wool from the rugs, overlooking the lake and nearby Accursed mountains (it’s a hard life).
Nebija takes orders from hotels, Albanians living abroad and tourists. Inside her shop, you’ll find everything from classic rugs to purses, handbags and scarves incorporating the traditional designs and textiles, many made by her daughter who lives in nearby Shkodër.
Visit Nebija’s workshop on our North Albania adventure holiday.
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