Ten years ago, the path over the Valbona Pass was a shepherds’ route between two isolated villages, walked mostly by locals and the occasional determined backpacker. Today it’s the most famous trek in Albania and one of the best known in the Balkans. Theth, a village of around 200 residents, now welcomes something like 15,000

Albania isn’t short of lakes, thanks in part to its karst limestone topography. There’s no less than 1,040 lakes in Albania (240 natural and 800 man-made), putting it in the running with Italy which has 1,500. So how on earth do you decide which ones are worth visiting? From the Thailand-esque Komani to wildlife-rich Shkodra,

To say that the Theth valley in the Albanian Alps is stunningly beautiful is an understatement, so there’s no wondering why it’s becoming increasingly popular with hikers. The Accursed Mountains, as they’re also known, could easily be mistaken for the Peruvian Andes. On the Valbona pass, karst limestone topography carpeted by beech forests stretch as