A tourism boom over the past few years means that, despite the hype, South Albania’s beaches can feel decidedly discovered — but that’s because most don’t know where to look.
This summer, my family and I set off on a research trip to carve out our new South Albania itinerary and proved that even in the height of the holiday season, not everywhere along the coast has been mined by the package holiday giants.
Our fact finding mission took us from secluded spots on the Ionian Sea inland to the twin UNESCO lakes of Ohrid and Prespa and rafting on the mighty Vijosa river. Here’s a look at what we got up to – and what’s in store for you if you’re joining us on our latest Albanian adventure.
A scenic start: Lake Ohrid
We landed in the capital of Tirana and set off towards the sleepy fishing village of Lin, not far from Pogradec, gateway to Lake Ohrid and beyond it, North Macedonia. The three-hour drive was no chore with such incredible scenery to enjoy all the way. Not long after leaving Tirana, the landscape shape-shifted from tower blocks to farming towns and distant hazy mountains. The views only became more glorious the closer we came to our destination.
Lin is a place trapped in time with its stone houses, where fishing boats bob in place of a family car and strings of drying red peppers (for ajvar and other Balkan specialities) hang like bunting. After a homemade lakeside lunch of fish soup, carp and homemade chips at a restaurant built on stilts above the water, we set out to explore.
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The UNESCO World Heritage Lake Ohrid is one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes and home to no less than 200 endemic species, so it’s the place to go for wildlife – and it did not disappoint. We were lucky enough to see a rare European Pond Terrapin tortoise paddling in the shallows. The water there was the clearest we’ve seen anywhere, inviting us in, and we couldn’t resist a swim.
Later, we hiked along a headland trail to a hidden Communist-era bunker. The climb was steep in places (though our youngest tackled it in flip-flops), but the views were worth it — a stunning panorama of the lake all to ourselves.
Lake Prespa and the hermit monk caves
From Lake Ohrid, we were treated to another scenic drive as we transferred to Lake Prespa, another crystal clear oasis surrounded by ancient forests, wetlands and rugged mountains at the meeting point of Albania, North Macedonia and Greece.
We arrived in the lakeside village of Pustec where we met our local guide Pandi for a speed boat tour of Mali Grad Island. Once there, we clambered up to one of Prespa’s cave monasteries – aka hermit monk caves – carved high into the cliffs. This particular one dates back to approximately the 14th century and we couldn’t believe we had this remarkable spot to ourselves. It was just us and the sound of the lake lapping below, a stark contrast to the frenzied beaches of the Albanian Riviera.
We followed our visit to the caves with some wild swimming in the lake’s warm, shallow waters and spotted Dalmatian Pelicans in the distance, a wonderful sight to see, and one we’d excitedly hoped for — Lake Prespa is home to one tenth of their global population.
Përmet: the Mediterranean outback
Driving towards Përmet, the scenery shifted to what we can only describe as the Mediterranean outback — vast, arid landscapes broken up by gorges, hilltop villages, horses in the prairies, and tiny prayer boxes on street corners and fields, like little phone booths to God.
NEW for 2025: 7 Day Activity Holiday in South Albania
Venture into South Albania’s hinterland and discover its best kept secrets on this coast-to-coast adventure. Swim in two of Europe’s oldest lakes, explore ancient cave monasteries and experience authentic Albanian hospitality.
We stopped at Kabashi Lake for a quick swim before continuing to Traditional Guesthouse Përmet, a grand stone manor which has been in the family for generations (minus a few decades of state ownership during communism). It was the perfect spot to experience true Albanian hospitality, surrounded by ethnographic artefacts and traditional furnishings. Breakfasts there were a delight — homemade fritters and jams, eggs, mountain tea, and freshly baked bread served in a shady courtyard.
Langarica Canyon: A Cool Escape
Most come to Langarica Canyon to bathe in the thermal waters, but we sidestepped the crowds yet again in favour of wading through the cool river waters instead. The 40 celsius heat barely registered in the cool, shady gorge. Along the way, we explored caves, swam in little natural pools and marvelled at the creamy karst cliffs towering above us.
That said, we couldn’t visit Langarica and deny our guests a dip in the thermal pools, so we checked those out too and included it in the official itinerary, meaning you’ll get the best of both worlds on this day in Langarica Canyon with us.
Rafting the Vjosa: Europe’s First Wild River National Park
Before heading home, we couldn’t resist a rafting trip down the Vjosa River, one of Europe’s last truly wild rivers and the first river to be designated a national park. In August, the rapids are very tame making them ideal for smaller children (for a proper whitewater adventure, come in May or June). Our guide, Geri, expertly navigated our raft, making sure everyone felt safe.
Our eldest decided to up the adrenaline by leaping off an eight metre high cliffside rock — his personal best! By this point, you’ve probably gathered that the scenery in this corner of Albania is stunning, so it goes without saying that the views from the raft followed suit.
Why South Albania?
This trip reminded me of why I love what I do. South Albania offers something rare: the chance to explore unspoilt landscapes, meet welcoming locals, and experience serenity, even in the height of summer.
Our new South Albania Coast-to-Coast Holiday is inspired by this journey. From wild swimming in Lake Ohrid to exploring the hermit caves of Prespa and rafting on the Vjosa River, it’s designed for travellers who, like us, seek places that are truly off the beaten track.
Are you ready to discover Albania’s hidden gems? Browse our full collection of Albania adventures or see which other Balkan destinations we travel to.
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