To say that the Theth valley in the Albanian Alps is stunningly beautiful is an understatement, so there’s no wondering why it’s becoming increasingly popular with hikers. The Accursed Mountains, as they’re also known, could easily be mistaken for the Peruvian Andes. On the Valbona pass, karst limestone topography carpeted by beech forests stretch as far as the eyes can see. This breathtaking trail is bookended by the farming villages of Theth and Valbona.
The first records of Theth date back to the Venetian period in the early 14th century, when just a handful of houses were stumbled upon. Theth is around a two-hour drive from the lakeside city of Shkodër. Its church, also built in the 14th century, has become the picture postcard of the village.
If you’re joining us in north Albania, you will have the chance to soak up these bucolic surroundings from the Valbona pass or during a mini hike to the Blue Eye natural pool. Whichever option you take, more of those views and a fresh, home grown dinner await you at our traditional homestay in Theth.
Related:
- 7 things you can only see, eat or do in Albania
- Meet Aldo, our Albania adventure guide
- Why the Balkans are perfect for a holiday in September
During the 1990’s, following the collapse of communism in Albania, many left the villages to find work. Over the past two decades, tourism has helped to breathe life back into the valley and families have returned to open their homes to hikers exploring the region. Marash, wife Albina (pictured below) and their three teenagers: Kristijan, Fred and Martina, are one such family who turned their home into a guesthouse in 2018. The kids divide their time between Theth and the city of Shkodër, helping their parents host hikers in their 200-year-old kulla (traditional north Albanian house) at weekends and on breaks from school or university (there aren’t any in Theth). Albina and Marash remain at their village home, farming and hosting tourists, from April through to November.
The adventure begins with a land rover defender ride from Theth centre up the rocky road to their sleepy hamlet just above the village. With Theth itself becoming ever more popular and touristy, the homestay location provides us with a tranquil escape in “old Theth”, away from the crowds and modern hotels. It also means we skip the first hour of hiking from the village to the start of the Theth to Valbona pass hike – your calves will thank us for that one.
Step inside the cottage and you will find lots of its original features, including remarkably preserved chestnut ceilings and artefacts such as Ottoman furniture and cookery pots. Choose between eating dinner on sheepskin rugs beside the fire at a traditional Ottoman sofra table or in the garden where you can gaze out at the mountains with a cold Peja beer in hand – or a glass of Marash’s pungent homemade raki. Albina and her daughter Martina cook up a storm with ingredients entirely from their farm. Tuck into freshly baked bread, salads, burek, meat, cheeses and seasonal fruit at dinner and start the day with mountain tea, eggs, bread and homemade jam and honey at breakfast time, fuel fit for our adventure.
Meanwhile, if they’re there, chat to Martina’s brothers Fred and Kristijan who are both studying at university in Shkodër. Kristijan is completing his master’s degree in economics and tourism and Fred is studying biochemistry. Their English language is excellent and as Albanians, they share the British sense of humour. The lovely Martina is still in high school and she intends to go to university too one day. If you’re still feeling energetic after a day of exploring Theth, take a stroll through the wildflower meadows surrounding the house and watch the sun setting behind the mountains. You may not be alone up there mind, the cows are free to roam and graze.
At the end of the season, the family leads their cattle back down to Shkodër where they will enjoy a well deserved rest and tend to the land there. Kristijan, Fred and Martina return to school and work. Although their grandparents managed the harsh winters in the mountains, many families nowadays choose not to stay in the mountains during winter because it’s still relatively remote and the weather can be fierce. Outside of the main hiking season, an alternative hiking path between Theth and Valbona is open because the one used during the summer is covered in snow and dangerous to cross.
Feeling inspired to visit the Albanian Alps? Check out our North Albania adventure holiday.
Comments