Driving in the Balkans can be hugely rewarding – dramatic mountain scenery, quiet country roads and the freedom to reach places public transport doesn’t serve. But there are a few important rules and quirks to know. Border crossings aren’t always straightforward, road conditions can change without warning, and Google maps isn’t always your friend.
This guide is for travellers planning a Balkan road trip, whether you’re hoping to make your own independent journey to reach your holiday start point (for example flying into Dubrovnik to reach Montenegro) or hiring a car to extend your time away.
We’ve put it together based on years of driving across Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina and Kosovo – both for our own travel and while supporting guests travelling independently before or after our guided trips.
Self-driving in the Balkans offers the freedom and flexibility to explore areas at your own pace but it requires preparation and – often – a calm disposition. Read on for a practical, experience-led overview of Balkan roads, border crossings and what to expect along the way.
Documents Required for a Balkan Road Trip
To drive internationally in the Balkans, you will need:
✔ Driver’s license and, in many cases, an International Driving Permit (IDP)
✔ Passport
✔ Credit card (some borders may accept cash or debit; check in advance)
✔ Rental agreement that allows cross-border travel
✔ International insurance / Green Card (for non-EU countries)
Related:
- How to prepare for your Balkan trip: from eSims to currency
- Our top adventures for couples in the Balkans
- When’s the best time to visit the Balkans
What kind of insurance do you need to drive in the Balkans?
Most standard EU motor insurance policies do not cover non-EU Balkan countries. Some insurers, like NFU Mutual, cover Albania, Montenegro, and Bosnia, but always check first. In almost all cases, you will need to buy a Green Card at border crossings for Albania, Serbia, Montenegro, North Macedonia, and Kosovo. These are proof of insurance and allow international driving. Green cards typically cost €15–€55 for around 15 days. Major border crossings usually have kiosks or brokers; small or remote crossings may not, so plan accordingly.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is now part of the Multilateral Agreement, so UK insurance is valid there without a green card.
Always inform your rental company if you plan to cross borders—they can guide you through the process. Many Balkan rental agencies do not allow cross-border travel, so you will need to seek one that does.
Planning Ahead for your Balkan road trip
- Don’t rely on one navigation app. Research across Google, Maps.me, Here WeGo and Waze. Navigation tools often underestimate road quality – Google Maps and other apps might send you onto small backroads that are technically passable but very rough or poorly surfaced. 🧭
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- Download offline maps because signal is patchy in rural areas
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- Check satellite view on map apps to gauge road width and surface conditions
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- Do not overestimate your driving route. When measuring driving distances and times, ALWAYS factor in additional time – although a road may be highlighted as being paved or asphalt, a lack of maintenance results in a long careful slog through pot holes.
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- Carry a physical roadside safety kit: warning triangle, tyre repair, first-aid, high-vis vests.
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- Prefer modern toll motorways where possible, they are better maintained
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- If you must use smaller roads, ask locals for current condition insights — they will know which stretches are truly bad despite what navigation apps say.
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- Reduce speed and avoid night driving where you can’t see surface conditions
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- It’s common to encounter livestock on the road — sheep, goats, cows — especially in rural areas. Keep a steady pace, be ready to brake, and anticipate livestock or slow vehicles around bends
Challenging roads in the Balkans 🚧
⛰️ Mountain roads across the region are narrow and challenging. You should always be well prepared that even a beautifully asphalted road can just stop and turn into a dirt track full of potholes and bumps. The locals are used to this and will overtake you at every opportunity. Most of all in Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, North Macedonia and Albania. Mountain passes often have sharp hairpins, steep gradients and limited guardrails. Drive slowly! And if this all sounds too much, relax and leave the driving to us on one of our expertly guided activity holidays.
🚧 Challenging roads in Montenegro
The A1 from Podgorica to Kolašin is one of the most scenic stretches of asphalt we’ve clapped eyes on, clinging to the edge of the steep-sided Morača canyon. It’s narrow too, with frequent hairpin bends, blind turns and slow-moving trucks causing tailbacks and frustrated overtaking manoeuvres. Keep your eyes on the road and take it slow. Or pay the toll and take the new stretch of motorway that runs to Mateševo in the Kolašin municipality.
🚧 Challenging roads in Albania and Kosovo
The road from Shkodër to the ferry port at Koman Lake has a mix of deep potholes, gravel, and rough asphalt that could wreck the tyres of a hire car. This is the kind of road that can turn a scenic detour into a slow slog, especially if you’re not in a 4-wheel drive.
Albania’s SH75 and SH21 (Thore Pass) are among the most notoriously patchy roads in the country, with rough surfaces, narrow switchbacks, and occasional unpaved or poorly maintained segments.
The road to places like Çorovodë →Piskovë or Gjipe Beach are often described as dangerous gravel tracks needing 4×4 vehicles.
Driving from Shkodër to Theth is no longer the stomach-lurcher it was thanks to asphalt now in place all the way, but it is often still impassable in winter and early spring due to snow and ice. Always check with someone local before driving it.
🚧 Challenging roads in Bosnia & Herzegovina
Rural roads, especially in the Republika Srpska section of Bosnia, have unexpectedly rough surfaces despite being labelled main routes. What appears on maps as a “major highway” between Foča and the Montenegro border at Šćepan Polje is in parts more like a country road to a remote village — rough, narrow, lacking guardrails and not well maintained.
🚧 Challenging roads in Serbia
Belgrade → Niš (A1 / Corridor X) is one of Serbia’s main highways but is in constant redevelopment. There are still ongoing works, narrowed sections and bottlenecks. Because Google maps hasn’t kept pace with the newly laid sections, GPS can detour off the highway onto lesser rural roads (e.g., route 158), but don’t be tempted to follow it. Just follow signs to Niš or Belgrade.
Grdelica Gorge section (~25 km) near Niš: narrow, slower, one lane alternating traffic in places, controlled by lights, often congested on weekends and holiday peaks.
Belgrade to Montenegro via Čačak / Užice
Locally known (especially older sections) as Ibarska Magistrala (State Road 22), this once-major route has a reputation for being uneven and in poor condition in rural stretches. It has been the subject of long-standing media and safety reports due to deteriorated pavement, little to no lighting and accidents over the years.
🚧 Challenging roads in North Macedonia
While main roads (e.g., the major corridor from Skopje to Greece) are intended to be modern highways, long-running construction projects have left some stretches incomplete for years. One example is a 44-km section near Ohrid that has been under construction for over a decade, leaving temporary surfaces of varying quality.
Driving across Balkan borders? Our tips
Cross only at official, major border crossings. Mountain backroads will likely leave you stuck and having to go all the way back around, adding miles on to your journey.
Check which borders sell insurance with our handy guide below. The procedure usually looks like this: you hand your passport to the border police, drive through customs to buy insurance, return with the certificate, get a passport stamp and then proceed. It can be a bit chaotic but manageable.
If you cannot cross at a major border, you will need to buy insurance in the first major town. Keep cash in euros for small fees.
| Country pair | Border crossings which sell insurance |
| Albania ↔ Montenegro | Hani i Hotit – Božaj; Muriqan – Sukobin |
| Montenegro ↔ Croatia | Debeli Brijeg – Karasovići |
| Croatia ↔ Bosnia | Metković – Doljani; Ivanica; Bijaca |
| BiH ↔ Montenegro | Klobuk / Ilino Brdo; Scepan Polje |
| Serbia ↔ Montenegro | Dobrakovo – Gostun; Jabuka – Rance |
| Kosovo Crossings | Morinë–Vermicë; Qafë Prushit; Kulla |
| North Macedonia | Qafë Thanë; Elez Han / Blace |
Scenic Balkan border crossings
🇦🇱 Albania → Montenegro border
☐ Hani i Hotit – Božaj (Sells insurance)
The busiest and most reliable Albania to Montenegro border, linking Shkodër with Podgorica. Flat, fast and functional, but with views of the Prokletije mountains in the distance and Lake Skadar/Shkodër to one side. This is the one we use to return to Podgorica after our Montenegro to Albania hiking holiday.
☐ Muriqan – Sukobin (Coastal)
A popular alternative closer to the coast, connecting Shkodër with Ulcinj, Montenegro’s laid-back beach town. Expect slow processing in summer but pretty scenery as you drive alongside beaches, lagoons and the Ulcinj salt pans where flamingos can be seen. Ulcinj’s old town and fortress and Velika Plaža beach (13 km of sand) are close by, as is Lake Skadar/Shkodër.
🇲🇪 Montenegro → Croatia border
☐ Debeli Brijeg – Karasovići (Sells insurance in a kiosk)
While this is the main coastal crossing between Herceg Novi and Dubrovnik and the only Montenegro–Croatia crossing where you can reliably buy insurance on the spot, we do not recommend this in summer! It can take up to 5 hours of waiting time to cross this EU/non-EU border. Go via Bosnia instead. Off-season it is better, with the drive skirting the Adriatic, with views over the Bay of Kotor and access to Cavtat town, Dubrovnik and the Konavle countryside in Croatia.
☐ Kobila – Vitaljina (smaller; may require buying insurance in a nearby town)
A scenic crossing on the tip of the Kobila Peninsula, close to tiny villages and rocky coves. While atmospheric, it’s unlikely you can buy insurance here, so use it only if you’re already covered. It is also a much longer way around than the Debeli Brijeg – Karasovići crossing. We do not recommend this in summer! It can take up to 5 hours of waiting time to cross this EU/non-EU border. Go via Bosnia instead.
🇭🇷 Croatia → Bosnia & Herzegovina border
☐ Metković – Doljani (sells Insurance)
The main inland route from the Dalmatian coast to Mostar, following the lush Neretva River Valley. Metković is a practical stop for fuel and supplies. As you drive on the Bosnia side, you will pass the Roman Bridge on Bregava and on to Mostar which we visit on our 7 day Bosnia hiking holiday.
☐ Mali Prolog – Crveni Grm (sells insurance)
A major transit point linking inland Dalmatia (Imotski area) with western Herzegovina and Medjugorje. Well-developed and efficient, this crossing is popular with tour buses and pilgrims and can be very busy in summer. This is the preferred route for travellers heading to Međugorje, Grude, and onward to Mostar which we visit on our 7 day Bosnia hiking holiday.
☐ Ivanica – BiH (may have insurance)
A smaller crossing near Čapljina south-east of Dubrovnik, frequently used by visitors heading inland to Trebinje. Trebinje’s cobbled old town, riverside cafés, and nearby vineyards (like the Vukoje winery) make this a pleasant first stop in Bosnia.
☐ Bijača – Nova Sela (may have insurance)
A well-used inland crossing linking the A1 motorway (Croatia) with southern Herzegovina. Popular with drivers heading toward Mostar. Roads on both sides are generally good, making this a reliable alternative to coastal crossings. Nearby highlights include vineyards, karst landscapes, and the Kravica Waterfalls, one of Herzegovina’s top natural sights which we visit on our 7 day Bosnia hiking holiday.
🇧🇦 Bosnia & Herzegovina → Montenegro border
☐ Ilino Brdo – Klobuk (sells Insurance)
A scenic well-established crossing between Trebinje and Nikšić, passing through classic Herzegovinian rugged hills and karst scenery. Trebinje is worth lingering in for its relaxed cafés and good wine bars, while Nikšić provides access to Lake Krupac and Montenegrin highlands.
☐ Scepan Polje (popular scenic crossing)
One of the most dramatic border crossings in the Balkans, spanning the Tara River Canyon, Europe’s deepest gorge. This route connects Foča with Durmitor National Park, passing some spectacular views of towering dark mountains. The mountain roads are poorly maintained on the Bosnian side, but even out in Montenegro (EU money). This route is slow, unforgettable, and hugely popular with adventurous travellers.
If you come rafting with us on our 6 day packrafting holiday in Montenegro, you get to cross this border with minimal hassle!
🇲🇪 Montenegro → Serbia border
☐ Dobrakovo – Gostun (major, sells insurance)
The main Montenegro–Serbia crossing, this is especially busy in summer. It links northern Montenegro with southwestern Serbia and is often TRAFFICKY. The road runs alongside the Lim River and the rail line from Belgrade to Bar.
☐ Jabuka – Rance (secondary, does not sell insurance)
Scenic but with fewer services. A quieter mountain crossing used by those travelling between Pljevljain Montenegro and western Serbia (Teretna). The landscape here is remote and rural, with forests, high plateaus, and very little traffic.
🇷🇸 Serbia → Bosnia & Herzegovina border
☐ Rača – Sremska Rača (sells insurance on Serbian side)
A large, flat crossing over the Sava River, commonly used by long-distance traffic.Official northern crossing connecting Serbian Sremska Rača with Bosnian territory Bosanska Rača/ on to Bijeljina. Major route for commercial and private traffic Insurance (Green Card / MTPL) usually available on the Serbian side. Functional rather than scenic, but reliable.
☐ Karakaj – Mali Zvornik (popular east route)
A striking crossing over the Drina River, linking Bosnian Zvornik and Serbian Mali Zvornik. The river gorge, hillside fortresses, and lakes make this one of the prettier Serbia–BiH crossings, with easy access to eastern Bosnia’s mountains.
🇽🇰 Kosovo Routes
(Green Card not accepted — must buy MTPL Kosovo insurance)
☐ Morinë – Vermicë (major crossing)
The busiest and best-equipped crossing, linking Albania’s Kukës with Kosovo’s Prizren. Fast roads, reliable insurance offices, and mountain scenery make this the easiest entry into Kosovo.
☐ Qafë Morinë Shqipëri (scenic)
A mountainous route through Northern Albania from Tropoje to Gjakova in Kosovo.
☐Qafë Prushit – (scenic)
A quieter, more rural route through alpine landscapes and small villages, also leading toward Gjakova. Less traffic, more scenery — but fewer services, so best used during daylight hours.
🚫 Kulla – Montenegro–Kosovo (CLOSED)
Often mentioned in older guides, this crossing at the end of the Rugova gorge has been closed for years and is not usable. Travellers heading between Montenegro and Kosovo must route via Serbia or Albania instead.: Montenegro → Serbia (Dobrakovo or Jabuka) → Kosovo (via Jarinje or Merdare) or Montenegro → Albania (Hani i Hotit or Muriqan) → Kosovo (via Morinë)
🇲🇰 North Macedonia border
☐ Qafë Thanë (main Alabania to Macedonia route)
A dramatic mountain crossing between Pogradec and Ohrid, with sweeping views over Lake Ohrid, a UNESCO World Heritage site. One of the most scenic border approaches in the Balkans, especially at sunset.
☐ Elez Han – Blace (Serbia to Macedonia)
A busy, functional crossing linking Skopje with southern Serbia. While not scenic itself, it’s the main artery for international traffic and close to Skopje’s old bazaar, fortress, and surrounding hills. Can link through to Kosovo from here.
A humorous guide to driving in Montenegro (from a survivor) 🛣️
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