Travel journalist Laura Sanders has visited Albania twice with us and guest blogs this week to explain the problem with coining Albania the “Maldives of Europe.”
You will not catch me referring to Albania as the “Maldives of Europe.” For one, that only refers to the 25% of the country made up of coastline. The other 75%? Mountains, rivers, lakes and remote farming villages clinging to traditional ways of life.
Sure, the Albanian coast is stunning and surrounded by clear, turquoise waters synonymous with tropical paradise. But it may not be the secluded island-esque escape you’re being sold when being compared to the Maldives. The coast is heaving during summer, which is why during Undiscovered Balkans’ South Albania tour, we only spent one day there. Thanks to Albania being deemed the hidden budget beach break by travel media, every man and his dog has flocked to Vlorë—aka the Albanian Riviera—and it’s no longer exclusive.
Due to increased demand, prices of hotels and restaurants in the area have shot up in the past couple of years, but the standards haven’t followed, so while Albania is still the cheaper option, it might not be as much of a bargain as you think. There’s also a lot of construction happening around the coast at the moment.
As mentioned, the majority of this beautiful country is made up of mountains, rivers and lakes—many of these primed for wild swimming and fringed by little pebble beaches you really can have all to yourself—Lake Ohrid being one of my favourites. The mountains here are so wild and untamed, they make western Europe’s Alps look manmade and they’d have to be seen to be believed. From hiking the Theth to Valbona pass to whitewater rafting on the Vjosa, there’s adventure to be found everywhere. And in places, you can hike for miles without seeing another soul.
Related:
- 7 things you can only see, eat or do in Albania
- Komani to Shkodra: The 6 most beautiful lakes in Albania
- Beyond the beaches: Exploring South Albania’s secret spots
Beyond its rich natural offerings are layers of history with a culture and language rooted in the very earliest civilisations. Simply likening Albania to a fly-and-flop destination in the Indian Ocean disregards all of this (no disrespect to the Maldives, there’s probably more to it than its beaches too). There are some priceless cultural exchanges to be had in Albania, if you know where to look. I’ve stayed with shepherds in the Albanian Alps, watched traditional qelsche hats being made in Krujë, and slept among generations of history in a family farm house overlooking the Vjosa, Europe’s last wild river. During each of these encounters, I’ve spoken to real people and learnt about life in Albania under communism and afterwards; I’ve learnt about their culture, traditional farming methods, and so much more—all while feasting on authentic home cooked meals. I didn’t get these experiences because I’m a journalist. Anybody who knows where to look and who to approach could have them too.
I’m not judging anybody who wants to go and work on their tan on the beach, what I’m saying is there’s a lot more out there. If you’re curious, you can reach Theth in the Albanian Alps in five hours from Vlorë, stopping in Tirana along the way to break up the journey. Don’t miss an incredible feast at Mrizi i Zanave Agrotourism on your way up either; this award-winning restaurant grows everything on site and you can take a tour of the wine, meat and cheese stores before tucking in. When you reach Theth, hunker down in a guesthouse for the evening and hike the high mountain pass to Valbona the following day for some truly out-of-this-world views. Rest up in Valbona and take the ferry across the stunning Lake Komani the next morning (a real treat), and return to Shkodër for a night before making your way back to the coast.
Alternatively, head east to the UNESCO city of Gjirokastër and soak up its Ottoman charm, just under two hours from Vlorë. From there, you can go into the mountains (provided you’ve got a local guide and a 4×4 vehicle) and explore rural Albania. Then there’s Përmet, not an obviously pretty town in itself, but it’s the gateway to the Vjosa River where I went whitewater rafting with Undiscovered Balkans.
Tempted? Hopefully I’ve convinced you that Albania is a country with many unique offerings beyond its beaches. It is not simply the “Maldives of Europe.” To find out for yourself, check out Undiscovered Balkans’ range of Albania adventure holidays.
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