This week we share a recipe for a cheese pie called Gibanica, popular across the Balkans, especially on feast days like St Tryphon’s on February 14. Gibanica is faintly similar to the famous burek, but has a few important nuances you need to know before you cook it.
Who is St Tryphon?
The paton saint of vineyards and wine growers, St Tryphon’s ‘slava’ (Saint’s Day) is celebrated on February 14, making him the unofficial rival to St Valentine in Serbia, Montenegro, Macedonia and parts of Bosnia and Croatia.
St Tryphon’s day is celebrated with wine, which has long been connected with fertility, health and abundance – and therefore love. Instead of chocolates and roses, traditionally couples would have shared a glass of wine on February 14, a symbol of prosperity and connection. Vineyards are pruned, wine is poured onto the earth, and farmers pray for a good growing season before the harvest. Nowadays both St Valentine’s day and St. Tryphon’s day traditions are mixed.
So as well as going on a date, don’t forget to practice some traditional customs like pouring wine into the soil and praying for fertility and a strong harvest!
In eastern Serbia St. Tryphon is known as Trifon Orezac or Zarizoj, while in North Macedonia he is affectionately called St Tryphon the Drunkard, patron of vineyards and taverns.
An old saying goes that if it rains or snows on Tryphon’s day, the year ahead will be abundant, while sunshine may signal drought. This is the only time we will say: pray for rain!
What are special Balkan foods on St Tryphon’s Day?
Like all celebrations, the feast is symbolic. The main things to include are the Slavski Kolač – ceremonial bread/cake and, of course, Vino (wine) for blessing and joy. Alongside these come the traditional dishes of Gibanica (cheese pie- see recipe below), and others such as sarma (stuffed cabbage), roast pork or lamb, prebranac (baked beans) and local red wines.
Come with a Sveća (candle) for faith and light… and to add a touch of romance.
On both our week-long adventure near Dubrovnik in Croatia and our original crowd pleaser holiday at Villa Miela in Montenegro, we’re surrounded by family-owned vineyards which offer tours and tastings. If you’re joining us on a trip at this time of year, know that you’ll certainly get a chance to sample the best Balkan wines. Read more about them in our introduction to wine in Croatia and Montenegro.
Related:
Love discovering new tastes on your travels? Our Albania food and culture holiday was created with foodies in mind.
Gibanica Cheese Pie Recipe for St Tryphon’s Day (pair with wine!)
This Balkan egg-and-cheese pie has a soft, fluffy centre and a crisp, flaky filo crust. Bake in a cake tin; any shape works, but remember thinner pies need less time.
Cook 1 hr
Serves 8
Ingredients
8 eggs
300g cottage cheese
Salt
120ml vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing
200g feta, crumbled
500g filo pastry
Sparkling water
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Whisk six eggs until fluffy, then mix in the cottage cheese, 1 tsp salt, 70ml oil and the feta. Keep the filo covered with a damp cloth.
Whisk the remaining two eggs with the remaining oil and a pinch of salt. Grease a 25cm tin. Line with four sheets of filo, brushing each with the egg mixture.
Scrunch three filo sheets, place in the tin, sprinkle with sparkling water and spoon over the cheesy filling. Repeat, finishing with three flat sheets on top, brushing each with egg mixture.
Bake for 45 minutes. Cool briefly, then lift out and rest on a rack to crisp the base. Cool for 15 minutes before slicing.
Related:
- 10 traditional Balkan foods you have to try when you visit
- A guide to Albanian food and wine
- A recipe for burek the traditional Balkan pastry with many names
- A recipe for priganice doughballs from Montenegro
Where to see St Tryphon celebrations: From Serbia to the Bay of Kotor
St. Tryphon’s legacy crosses borders. Inland in Serbia and Macedonia, he is honoured in vineyards and village churches; while on the Adriatic coast of Montenegro he is celebrated with pageantry and dance. In Kotor for example, the Boka bay Navy honours Saint Tryphon by dancing a ‘Kolo’ circle dance in traditional uniform in front of the cathedral and through the old town. This living tradition, recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, continues today in Kotor, Tivat and Herceg Novi and parts of the Croatian coast.
If you’re joining us in Montenegro, we’ll take you on a wine-tasting tour to at least one of our favourite local wineries for a Saint Tryphon’s day wine tasting. Time your visit right, and you may even get a hint of sunshine in February if the humid air lifts. Wine tastes all the better when sipped in the sunshine gazing out to the vines and distant Lake Skadar.
Looking for a more off-the-beaten-path food and wine experiences? Join us for a week of mixed activities including wine tasting in Croatia or Montenegro.
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