Day 1 – Arrival 
After landing in Tirana, the transfer into Southern Albania makes for a picturesque 3.5 hours drive. After the coastal plain’s colourful stands of fresh produce, we drive alongside the mountain-backed Vjosa River towards Tepelena. In a quaint village nearby the trailhead, we’re accommodated at a family-run guesthouse surrounded by nature. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, get to know your fellow hikers and a briefing on what’s ahead from your Tour Leader.

Day 2 – Into Zagoria Valley
Our 5-day trek begins at the edge of the Zagoria River Valley, a pristine tributary within Europe’s first Wild River National Park. Entering the valley along an ancient, nearly forgotten caravan route, we follow over the coming days a path lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches, remnants of the valley’s rich past. Descending through terraced fields, we pause in the tiny hamlet of Kala, home to to just three remaining residents, and cool off with a wild splash beneath an impressive Ottoman stone bridge. We then climb toward Limar, a village with expansive views of majestic Mt Strakavec (1.958 m) and distinctive stone houses where we will stay at home of the village teachers, Noli and Margerita, who, over an evening meal of locally sourced ingredients, will share stories of life under communism – a rare firsthand glimpse into the resilience and history of those who called this secluded valley home.. Hiking details: 11km, 75om ascent. Grade: moderate.

Day 3 – Zagoria Villages
Our route today links the remote villages of Leskaj and Doshnica and Hoshteve. Passing through these hamlets gives us the opportunity to meet locals learn about the traditional ways of life sustained by animal husbandry, beekeeping, and medicinal herb gathering. Upon reaching the village, we visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, a beautifully preserved treasure of Orthodox heritage, Byzantine frescoe painting and intricate wood carving – one of the finest in rural Albania. We’ll be warmly welcomed by Katrina and Ladi, who generously share their story and serve a delicious, home cooked meal with us. Hiking details: 14km, 700m ascent. Grade: moderate.

Day 4 – Following the footsteps of Bill Tilman
A more relaxed walking experience, dominated by views of Mt. Cajupi (2.145 m). We’ll traverse the hamets Vithuq, Koncka, Nivan, to reach Sheper. Nivan, once the heart of the commune, reveals remnants of military installations and storage depots, with its central square honoring William Tilman. Celebrated as “the 20th Century’s last true explorer”, Tilman was a renowned British mountaineer and sailor who fought with the valley’s resistance against German occupation during World War II. As we continue, the trail descends through oak forest to the river, where we’ll visit an old monastery and have the option to take a small detour to yet another of Ali Pasha’s remaining stone bridges before reaching our final overnight with Antoneta and Mondi, a gifted stone mason. Hiking details: 12km, ascent 600m. Grade: moderate.

Day 5 – The Dhembel Pass
The crossing of the Dhembel-Nemercke Range marks the longest and most demanding stage and leads us out of the valley and back into the modern world. As the drive around the range takes almost as long as the walk across it, our luggage is transported by horse and route remains vital for locals to this day. Shepherds have traversed the pass for centuries, journeying from as far as Albania’s southernmost tip to the fertile meadows of the Pindus Mountains around Mt. Gramoz – a trek that can take up to two weeks with their flocks. From this vantage point, you can gaze across the Eastern Mountains into Greece and down to the city of Përmet and the charming Vjosa Valley far below. The long, rocky descent requires attention as we make our way down to Permet. After a long day of walking, you can rest your legs and look forward to savouring the city’s cuisine, wines and raki. Hiking details: 13km. 500m ascent. Grade: moderate/challenging.

Day 6 – Langarica Thermal Springs and Gjirokaster
A short lift alongside the turquoise waters of the Vjosa takes us into the countryside, rewarded with sweeping views of dramatic Mt. Nemercka. Having crossed over the highest point, we’ll visit a local family in the village of Ogdunan, before descending to the Langarica Canyon. Here, our hike ends at an ancient Ottoman bridge, where we soak in the warm thermal springs – believed to have a healing properties for many ailments. It’s the perfect way to unwind after the five days of trekking. Relax in the sulfur-rich waters or explore scenic river canyon on foot before continuing by car to Gjirokaster. You’ll stay in a traditional Ottoman mansion in the old town and start to discover the charm of the “City of Stone”. Wander through it historic streets or rest up. Hiking details: 12km, no real ascent. Grade: easy.

Day 7 – Gjirokaster and Tirana
Gjirokaster is renowned not only known for its fortress-like Ottoman mansions but also as the birthplace of former dictator Enver Hoxha and Albania’s most influential, Nobel-nominated writer Ismail Kadare.  Designated as a “museum town”, Gjirokaster survived socialist modernization campaigns, earning its place on UNESCO’s world heritage list. After exploring the extensive castle that towers over the old town, you can join your guide for a short semi-urban walk through the upper quarters and visit a final Ottoman bridge, or you may choose to wander the maze of narrow, cobbled streets on your own. Lunch is on you today and and you can select from one of many charming tavernas that line the streets. In the afternoon, we’ll regroup for a four hour drive to Tirana, the vibrant modern capital that strives to embrace a contemporary European identity. Hiking details: 6km, no real ascent. Grade: easy

Day 8 – Return to Tirana airport

Please note, the accommodation offered on this trip is unique, as it is almost wholly with local families along the hiking trails. Rooms will be basic and en-suite facilities are not available – but what you will get in return is the kind of local hospitality and interaction that would be quite impossible elsewhere!